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	<title>Michael Dresdner</title>
	<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com</link>
	<description>straight talk about wood finishing</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 03 Feb 2011 06:27:32 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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	<item>
		<title>Times are a&#8217;changin&#8230;</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear readers,
I&#8217;ve been answering your finishing questions both professionally for pay and pro bono for hobby woodworkers since 1980 in magazines, chat rooms, message boards, websites and for the past decade, on this website turned blog. The time has come to move on.
After I post this last batch of questions, I will no longer be adding content to this [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2011/02/times-are-achangin/</link>
			</item>
	<item>
		<title>Hand applied sunburst</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: How do you recreate the look of the old style hand applied sunburst used on Gibson mandolins from the 1920s and 1930s?
A: The somewhat rough look of the inside ring of the sunburst comes from the old style hand applied sunburst as opposed to one that is sprayed on. It&#8217;s a moderately difficult technique [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/12/hand-applied-sunburst/</link>
			</item>
	<item>
		<title>Spot on</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: Can no-sand floor renewal finish systems fill in worn spots on a baked on factory finish?
A: Yes, they are made to go over any finish. However, the problem with worn spots is that they may or may not look the same. Many, but not all, finishes, both commercial and industrial, add amber to the [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/12/spot-on/</link>
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	<item>
		<title>Don&#8217;t make me blush</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: I need to finish a reproduction 17th Century Chester County Spice box.  How much trouble will I have if I take the box into the unheated garage long enough to spray shellac with an HVLP and, then take it right back into the house? Will I end up with blushing?
A: Not likely. However, [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/12/dont-make-me-blush/</link>
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		<title>Play musty for me</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: My old desk has a kind of musty smell. Can this be improved by treating the wood?
A: Musty smells can come from mildew or accumulations of dust and dirt. Clean the desk, including the interior areas, and kill any mildew with laundry bleach. If you want, you can seal the exposed wood areas, such [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/11/play-musty-for-me/</link>
			</item>
	<item>
		<title>Formaldehyde</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: I purchased a 70s-era desk with an oak veneer. Much of the desk is constructed of heavy fiberboard. I&#8217;m worried about the formaldehyde and other chemicals off gassing. Is there a way to seal the exposed fiberboard?
A: If it is from the 70s, anything that was going to off-gas has long ago done so, [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/11/formaldehyde/</link>
			</item>
	<item>
		<title>Gaps away</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: My floor looks good but there are some small gaps between the floor boards. It is an oak herringbone floor with a polyurethane finish. What is the absolute best product to use to fill the existing gaps?
A: In my opinion, it is trowel filler or pore filler, depending on the size of the gaps, [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/11/gaps-away/</link>
			</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wax on, wax off</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: I have waxed oak floors. They are extremely dull. I  used liquid cleaner with dark pigment but that only seems to last a few weeks before they dull up. Is there a better product?
A: Commercial cleaners remove wax. Thus, if the shine from your floors comes from wax, using a wax removing cleaner [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/11/wax-on-wax-off-2/</link>
			</item>
	<item>
		<title>Jewelry finish</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: What would be the best non toxic finish I could use on jewelry made from wood?
A: I&#8217;m not sure what you mean by non-toxic, as that is a term used typically for things we ingest.
If you mean that the finish itself is edible or drinkable in its liquid form, that would include raw linseed [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/11/jewelry-finish/</link>
			</item>
	<item>
		<title>HVLP; which one?</title>
		<description><![CDATA[Q: I&#8217;m looking into buying an HVLP turbine system that will spray oil based and waterbased finishes, including latex paint. Many folks seem to be very happy with the Fuji Q4 Gold; then there&#8217;s the Earlex HV6900.
A: The Fuji system is excellent, though if I had to name my current favorite, money no object, it [...]]]></description>
		<link>http://www.michaeldresdner.com/2010/11/hvlp-which-one/</link>
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