Michael Dresdner

straight talk about wood finishing

Archive for the 'spray' Category

Don’t make me blush

Wednesday, December 1st, 2010

Q: I need to finish a reproduction 17th Century Chester County Spice box. How much trouble will I have if I take the box into the unheated garage long enough to spray shellac with an HVLP and, then take it right back into the house? Will I end up with blushing? A: Not likely. However, [...]

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HVLP; which one?

Friday, November 12th, 2010

Q: I’m looking into buying an HVLP turbine system that will spray oil based and waterbased finishes, including latex paint. Many folks seem to be very happy with the Fuji Q4 Gold; then there’s the Earlex HV6900. A: The Fuji system is excellent, though if I had to name my current favorite, money no object, [...]

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Kitchen magic

Thursday, September 16th, 2010

Q: The kitchen cabinets in my 20 year old house were painted rather than stained. They are a cherry color on what I believe is alder. Over the years some of the paint has chipped away leaving behind part of the original unfinished wood. The cherry paint itself is not a solid color, but varies [...]

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Wednesday, September 15th, 2010

Q: I am finishing alder with Daly’s Benite and CrystalFin, spraying with a Fuji gun and #55 needle. I have been using water damp cloths as tack rags. I am getting white spots in the dried finish. Most areas are fine, but some of the areas look like white overspray. The spots are down in [...]

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Rattle cans are cheaper

Wednesday, August 18th, 2010

Q: We’d like to spray Rustoleum hammer finish but do not have any equipment. Can you recommend an inexpensive HVLP system for home/light use? A: Yes, but I’d advise against buying a spray system just for this one job. You can buy Rustoleum hammer finish in aerosol cans under the Universal label. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=180 Those Universal [...]

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For once, no primer

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

Q: We’d like to coat our stripped metal furniture with hammer finish from Rust-Oleum. The local paint person stated this can be applied directly to the metal, but perhaps I am just being old school so I am questioning whether priming first would be better. A: Rustoleum’s hammer finish is in fact fine to use [...]

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Cleanliness is next to…

Monday, August 16th, 2010

Q: In preparation for painting stripped metal furniture, we’ve wiped down the pieces with soapy water and wiped everything dry, gone back over the pieces and have given them a light sanding. Do I need to be concerned with chemical residue from the previous finishes, stripper or other contaminate? A: Possibly. Some strippers contain wax, [...]

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You make me blush

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Q: My painter sprayed lacquer recently on a hot and humid day and trapped moisture under the finish. Having had experience with this I told him to re-spray with lacquer retarder added to the lacquer and to remove the humidity from the room before re-spraying. This worked to a certain extent but still did not [...]

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Cleanup in aisle two

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

Q: I’m using a water based urethane acrylic lacquer. Can I leave the stuff it in the spray gun (HVLP) in between coats, or do I have to clean the gun every time? A: Most waterbased finish clog gun tips sooner than you would expect, and cleaning the gun can be very troublesome if the [...]

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Don’t fence me in

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

Q: I have an older privacy fence made of staggered treated pine; the kind you buy in sections at Home Depot. Over the years the fence has grayed and I want to clean and stain it. My plan is to use deck cleaner and some light pressure washing to clean. Afterwards, I want to stain [...]

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