Archive for the 'shellac' Category
Q: I recently acquired an antique mahogany crib which I want to refinish for my one year old granddaughter. After some sniffing around on the web, no one seems to have a confident definitive answer on what finish would be safe. Can you help?
A: Virtually all film forming finishes, that is, those that harden to [...]
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Posted in clear coat, food safe, shellac | No Comments »
Q: I’m currently building an outdoor grill cart out of ash and obviously need to protect it. I was thinking about sealing with Zinsser and then multiple coats of an exterior finish. What do you think?
A: You did not say which Zinsser product, and only some of their primers are exterior coatings. For instance, SealCoat [...]
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Thursday, March 25th, 2010
Q: You said we could glaze gold leaf. If we apply glaze directly over uncoated leaf, won’t it tear the leaf when we clean off the excess?
A: No. You simply wipe off the excess glaze immediately, while it is still liquid, using a soft cloth, or blend it using a very soft bristle brush. Neither [...]
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Posted in Coloring options, finishing techniques, seal, shellac, stain | No Comments »
Q: I’ve tried Zinsser SealCoat on wood turning as a sealer before wipe on poly. The finished result is outstanding; it did a great job of sealing spalted maple. For sanding, I use a 2″ disc in a cordless drill on low speed off the lathe with 400 grit paper. The sandpaper builds up with [...]
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Posted in clear coat, finishing techniques, lathe, sanding, seal, shellac, woodturning | No Comments »
Q: I usually finish the soundboard of my classical guitars with dewaxed shellac. It has no color at all and therefore the soundboard ends up being very pale. I noticed all classical guitar sound boards are more toward a brown tint. My question is, do you think luthiers stain their soundboards only by using different [...]
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Posted in Coloring options, clear coat, dye, lacquer, shellac, stain | No Comments »
Friday, January 29th, 2010
Q: I’ve been using cellulose sanding sealer on my woodturnings. What’s the difference between it and Zinsser SealCoat, and which is better? I normally use wipe on polyurethane as my finish.
A: Better is a personal judgment you must make, but I can certainly tell you the differences. Cellulose sanding sealer is lacquer laced with stearate, [...]
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Posted in compatibility, finishing techniques, lacquer, polyurethane, sanding, seal, shellac | No Comments »
Monday, January 11th, 2010
Q: I am chemically sensitive and am renting a house where some perfume has embedded itself into the wood doors of a closet. I am looking for a clear sealer with no vocs and no fungicides or harsh chemicals to use to seal the odor in.
A: The very best odor sealer is shellac or dewaxed [...]
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Posted in clear coat, compatibility, seal, shellac | No Comments »
Friday, January 8th, 2010
Q: I turned Christmas ornaments of cherry wood. On one small spot about the size of a quarter, I can not get lacquer to stick to the wood. I did not get glue or oil of any kind on the wood. I used acetone to wipe down the ornament before I started spraying.
A: That may [...]
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Posted in clear coat, compatibility, finishing techniques, lacquer, seal, shellac, woodturning | No Comments »
Monday, January 4th, 2010
Q: Since Zinsser shellac is formulated with isopropanol, it dries slowly, which I am having to get used to. I haven’t sprayed it yet but I’m betting it sprays well.
A: The primary solvent in Zinsser shellac is ethanol. There’s only a small amount of isopropanol, and I doubt it would affect drying time noticeably. However, [...]
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Posted in clear coat, shellac, spray | No Comments »
Friday, January 1st, 2010
Q: I’m planning on building a rabbit cage to keep outside using 3/4″ particleboard, because of its price. I’ve got some Zinsser SealCoat and was wondering if I could use that as a primer, then use an exterior grade latex or oil based paint on top.
A: Yes, you can use Zinsser SealCoat under any common [...]
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Posted in compatibility, durability, exterior finish, shellac | No Comments »