Archive for the 'seal' Category
Thursday, September 2nd, 2010
Q: A friend told me that he used nitrocellulose sanding sealer on wood, and then finished it over with an automotive two part clear coat. Does this seem possible? To me it just sounds like the two different systems will not go together.
A: You are correct in worrying about incompatible systems, but as luck would [...]
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Tuesday, August 17th, 2010
Q: We’d like to coat our stripped metal furniture with hammer finish from Rust-Oleum. The local paint person stated this can be applied directly to the metal, but perhaps I am just being old school so I am questioning whether priming first would be better.
A: Rustoleum’s hammer finish is in fact fine to use without [...]
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Wednesday, August 4th, 2010
Q: Should I apply a sanding sealer after staining maple? I read that you cannot use sanding sealer under a sprayed precatalyzed spray lacquer which is what I was thinking of finishing with.
A: That’s half true; stearated sealers, which are one type of sealer, are not compatible under most catalyzed finishes. You must have a [...]
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Q: I am making French doors out of red oak. I got to the sanding stage and I noticed pithy type areas, pithy veins. I sanded them but I was wondering if you had run into this and if so how you handled it?
A: Certain types of red oak, including one we used to call [...]
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Q: I am finishing some beech and used Zinsser SealCoat in a 50-50 mix with denatured alcohol. After light sanding I applied tung oil but the result was some serious blotching. I’m planning on using shellac as a finish.
A: Zinsser SealCoat is pure, dewaxed shellac, already reduced to exactly the right consistency. That implies two [...]
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Q: I built a box of marine plywood to attach to the underside of the roof allowing a column to be mounted. After three coats of acrylic latex paint, the majority of the box is a nice white. However, there is a zig zag in the side of the box which either won’t accept paint [...]
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Q: I’m getting some shiny areas in the finish after four coats of satin lacquer, scuffing with 180 in between. The sealer over the pore filler is two coats of tinted garnet shellac. Over that is one coat of sanding sealer. I fear I’ve sanded through the lacquer and gotten down to either the tinted [...]
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Q: I’m restoring a Martin guitar, and after staining, I added three very
light wash coats of 1lb. cut shellac. I’d like to strike the pores black
with Finishers Glaze seal with sanding sealer, fill pores with Bartley’s dark, seal and topcoat. Martin mahogany pores are darkened nicely. I’m trying to do it the right way.
A: I’m [...]
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Posted in Coloring options, clear coat, finishing techniques, pigment, pore filler, refinishing, seal, shellac, stain | No Comments »
Tuesday, April 27th, 2010
Q: Is there any barrier coat that will allow me to seal waterbased finish on a guitar that has been plagued with fisheye problems, then spray with waterbased over it?
A: I won’t say it is guaranteed, but spraying coat of Zinsser SealCoat usually does an excellent job of creating a waterbased friendly barrier coat. Incidentally, [...]
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Q: I decided to spray Deft’s new waterborne acrylic wood finish for the top coat on a guitar. I am not happy with the outcome. I seem to get small fisheye no matter what I do. I am spraying at about 35 pounds and thinned it about 25%. There are no contaminants and I have [...]
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