Q: I’m restoring a Martin guitar, and after staining, I added three very
light wash coats of 1lb. cut shellac. I’d like to strike the pores black
with Finishers Glaze seal with sanding sealer, fill pores with Bartley’s dark, seal and topcoat. Martin mahogany pores are darkened nicely. I’m trying to do it the right way.
A: I’m [...]
Q: I want to finish new oak plywood cabinets with onyx painted finish with an artistic sanding through on accent areas but I can’t get a smooth finish look. What do I need to use to get the smooth finish look?
A: You need pore filler. Oak is an open pore wood and the pores are, [...]
Q: I would like to finish some oak with solid color lacquer from a spray can. I want the finished surface to be very smooth and have the grain completely hidden. I’ve been using Crystalac brand grain filler, but after five coats the grain is still visible in places. Should I continue with more coats, [...]
Q: I am in the process of completing a kitchen full of cabinets and need some advice about the proper finish to use. The face frames and drawer fronts are walnut. There are several lower cabinet doors that are walnut frames with a maple panel. Do I need to seal the wood to obtain a [...]
Q: Would you apply waterbased pore filler directly onto wood or give it a wash coat of something like shellac first?
A: With most waterbased fillers, you can do either, but there are reasons to go one direction or the other. If you are not staining the wood prior to filling, and don’t mind the stain [...]
Q: I know that in USA you have three pore fillers: oil based, waterbased and clear filler. Here in Italy there are no such pore fillers. We have nitro pore filler sealer that is sprayed on, but the problem is that it does not fill
pores. It is impossible for me to order solvent based pore [...]
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