Michael Dresdner

straight talk about wood finishing

Archive for the 'polyurethane' Category

Bartley gel it is

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

Q: The Rockler gel urethane I used to use is no longer available. Any suggestions?
A: The Rockler gel was a private label product made by Lawrence McFadden. They went into bankruptcy and their formulas and remaining product was purchased by Seagrave Coatings. Peter Teppermann, the president of Seagrave, assured me that they will continue selling [...]

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Piano polyester problems

Friday, May 7th, 2010

Q: I have a piano with what Kawai tells me is a polyurethane finish that was severely gouged. While I am a professional refinisher, I am at a loss as to how to burn-in the gouges and rub them out without having to re-coat. Is there a method to avoid the re-coating?
A: Probably not. I [...]

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Topping off the floor

Tuesday, May 4th, 2010

Q: It been about six years since I’ve had my hardwood floors installed. I want to apply a couple of coats waterbased polyurethane sealer to the floor but I’m not sure whether the installer used oil or water.
A: Several companies offer special waterbased floor finishing kits designed to go over any type of floor finish [...]

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Poly who?

Friday, April 9th, 2010

Q: I just had an oak dining table refinished in a dark brown, shiny poly finish. It looks great, but only after two weeks I am seeing dozens of little superficial surface scratches everywhere. Do you think this is normal?
A: Fine scratches on the surface of a gloss finish are certainly common. Of course, [...]

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Quote/misquote

Wednesday, April 7th, 2010

Q: I recently read an item about adding something to polyurethane to make it cure faster. It was published in the December 2002 issue of Woodworker’s Journal in your Finishing Thoughts column. I went back through my issues and that one is missing. Can you help?
A: I just checked my copy, and it says nothing [...]

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Bubbles? Champagne, not varnish

Thursday, April 1st, 2010

Q: How do you prevent bubbles in spar varnish? I have tried bristle brushes, sponge brushes, and even putty knives.
A: In real estate the adage is location, location, location. With brushing oil based varnish, it’s technique, technique, technique.
A few basics come first. Start with the softest natural bristle brush you can find; ox hair is [...]

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Beer proof finish

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Q: I’m making 4 fiddle back maple tabletops for a local restaurant, and I’m hunting for a good durable finish. I’ll be putting Watco natural on for color, then I need something to protect the surface from food, beer, etc.
A: You have two good choices for that level of durability. One is simple oil based [...]

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Fisheye follies

Friday, March 5th, 2010

Q: I’m refinishing a mahogany end table. After stripping the old finish, I washed it down with paint thinner then applied a coat of polyurethane. The finish did not take in some areas. I believe it’s called fisheye. I applied a second coat and it seem to fill in some of the spots but enough [...]

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Oil or water, or both?

Monday, March 1st, 2010

Q: I have been using Minwax Satin Oil Based Wipe-On polyurethane for finishing my kitchen cabinets. I can’t buy it anymore in California due to VOC laws. Is the water based product going to give me the same results?
A: Depending on your criteria, you may or may not find it acceptable. It is developing a [...]

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Nibs in wipe on

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Q: I’m trying to finish a secretary project. I’ve done part of it with General Finishing wipe on semi-gloss urethane and I guess I got lucky, because now I can’t get the same results without dust and debris setting in. If you do a semi gloss finish is there a way to erase the nibs [...]

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