Archive for the 'polyurethane' Category
Q: I’m making 4 fiddle back maple tabletops for a local restaurant, and I’m hunting for a good durable finish. I’ll be putting Watco natural on for color, then I need something to protect the surface from food, beer, etc.
A: You have two good choices for that level of durability. One is simple oil based [...]
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Posted in clear coat, durability, finishing techniques, polyurethane | No Comments »
Q: I’m refinishing a mahogany end table. After stripping the old finish, I washed it down with paint thinner then applied a coat of polyurethane. The finish did not take in some areas. I believe it’s called fisheye. I applied a second coat and it seem to fill in some of the spots but enough [...]
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Posted in clear coat, finish repair, finishing techniques, polyurethane, refinishing, seal, waterbased | No Comments »
Q: I have been using Minwax Satin Oil Based Wipe-On polyurethane for finishing my kitchen cabinets. I can’t buy it anymore in California due to VOC laws. Is the water based product going to give me the same results?
A: Depending on your criteria, you may or may not find it acceptable. It is developing a [...]
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Monday, February 15th, 2010
Q: I’m trying to finish a secretary project. I’ve done part of it with General Finishing wipe on semi-gloss urethane and I guess I got lucky, because now I can’t get the same results without dust and debris setting in. If you do a semi gloss finish is there a way to erase the nibs [...]
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Friday, February 12th, 2010
Q: Can I put one coat of oil based polyurethane on some drawers, wait eight hours or so, and then overcoat the oil based polyurethane with several topcoats of waterbased polyurethane?
A: Sometimes. That is to say, some waterbased polyurethanes will adhere to some oil based polyurethanes, but not all will do so. I’d let the [...]
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Wednesday, February 10th, 2010
Q: There’s a method I want to try; waterbased dye, seal, gel stain left dark in corners and wiped to simulate wear, top coat. How can I brush top coat using varnish without screwing up the gel, since varnish needs scratches to hold to?
A: No it doesn’t. Just let the gel dry thoroughly so that [...]
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Posted in Coloring options, clear coat, compatibility, dye, finishing techniques, gel, pigment, polyurethane, varnish | No Comments »
Friday, January 29th, 2010
Q: I’ve been using cellulose sanding sealer on my woodturnings. What’s the difference between it and Zinsser SealCoat, and which is better? I normally use wipe on polyurethane as my finish.
A: Better is a personal judgment you must make, but I can certainly tell you the differences. Cellulose sanding sealer is lacquer laced with stearate, [...]
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Posted in compatibility, finishing techniques, lacquer, polyurethane, sanding, seal, shellac | No Comments »
Thursday, January 28th, 2010
Q: Any word on the Lawrence McFadden Seagrave deal?
A: The decision of the bankruptcy court that must approve Seagrave’s purchase of Lawrence McFadden has been postponed until February first. I will get back to you via this blog once that is finalized, but in the meantime, I spoke at some length to Peter Tepperman, the [...]
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Posted in clear coat, gel, lacquer, polyurethane | No Comments »
Sunday, January 24th, 2010
Q: Can I put an oil based urethane on top of waterbased Varathane?
A: Yes. Varathane is polyurethane, and oil based urethane can go over waterbased, provided the waterbased is fully cured and all the water is out of it. Do bear in mind that one of the reasons for using waterbased polyurethane is that it [...]
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Posted in clear coat, compatibility, polyurethane, waterbased | No Comments »
Wednesday, January 13th, 2010
Q: I built a dresser with soft maple. I am ready to apply the finish which included a dye stain under a polyurethane top coat. I have been testing pieces to ensure that the wood will all look uniform and it does not. I have sanded everything to 220 and certain boards look like they [...]
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Posted in Coloring options, dye, polyurethane, stain | No Comments »