Michael Dresdner

straight talk about wood finishing

Archive for the 'finish repair' Category

Spot on

Thursday, December 2nd, 2010

Q: Can no-sand floor renewal finish systems fill in worn spots on a baked on factory finish? A: Yes, they are made to go over any finish. However, the problem with worn spots is that they may or may not look the same. Many, but not all, finishes, both commercial and industrial, add amber to [...]

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Wax on, wax off

Thursday, November 25th, 2010

Q: I have waxed oak floors. They are extremely dull. I used liquid cleaner with dark pigment but that only seems to last a few weeks before they dull up. Is there a better product? A: Commercial cleaners remove wax. Thus, if the shine from your floors comes from wax, using a wax removing cleaner [...]

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Unstaining

Monday, November 1st, 2010

Q: My stepson recently purchased stain from the cabinet supplier of his kitchen. The plan was to match the color to his unfinished crown molding. The color is wrong. Since the molding has contours, it can’t be easily sanded off. Is there a solution for stripping down to bare wood? A: Most stains can be [...]

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Unwanted stains

Wednesday, October 27th, 2010

Q: I just bent some cherry sides for an acoustic guitar. A reaction must have occurred during the bending process resulting in green blue spots on the wood surface. What do you recommend to eliminate or minimize? A: Removing stains depends first on know what caused them. Blue green stain is most likely one of [...]

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Kitchen magic

Thursday, September 16th, 2010

Q: The kitchen cabinets in my 20 year old house were painted rather than stained. They are a cherry color on what I believe is alder. Over the years some of the paint has chipped away leaving behind part of the original unfinished wood. The cherry paint itself is not a solid color, but varies [...]

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Reversing time

Friday, September 3rd, 2010

Q: I’ve looking at a restoration issue in some of the old Chicago bungalows where what I assume is varnish has almost coagulated on the surface of the wood trim. On most of the woodwork it’s acquired a nice patina and I’m trying to figure out how we could smooth the surface without removing the [...]

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A shade more glycerin

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Q: I just obtained two small table lamps made of burl and the lampshades are of what appears to be birdseye maple veneer. The veneer is fabric backed and very brittle. As a result there are some small voids and cracks in each shade. I plan to back the voids with wood putty and then [...]

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You make me blush

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Q: My painter sprayed lacquer recently on a hot and humid day and trapped moisture under the finish. Having had experience with this I told him to re-spray with lacquer retarder added to the lacquer and to remove the humidity from the room before re-spraying. This worked to a certain extent but still did not [...]

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Pumice problems

Wednesday, June 16th, 2010

Q: When using pumice stone and linseed oil to rub out slight discoloration in an inlaid dining table I encounter little spots forming. The discolorations do disappear. A: First, if you must use pumice (and there are far better alternatives), pair it with a non-drying oil such as mineral oil, not linseed oil. As for [...]

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Polyester problems

Wednesday, June 2nd, 2010

Q: Short of sanding it off, is there any way to remove a polyester finish from guitar sides? A: Yes, but it might be faster and easier to sand or scrape it off. For guitars with solid sides, you can make the job easier by working it off with a heat gun. When heated, polyester [...]

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