Michael Dresdner

straight talk about wood finishing

Archive for the 'durability' Category

Hemp for a “high” shine?

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010

Q: We used hemp oil and beeswax to finish a new very large dining room table. However, the finish is not durable and water and wine stains are a real problem. We wish to remove and re-sand it and need some advice for refinishing it. Would any other oil such, as walnut oil offer the [...]

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Hard and soft

Friday, April 30th, 2010

Q: I am building a modern looking pine dining table using lodgepole pine. The wood is extremely soft and dents easily. Is there a product that I can use to harden the tabletop so it minimizes dents. A: Yes, in theory, though it is not generally deemed too practical. There are rotted wood repair kits [...]

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Scratches, away!

Monday, April 19th, 2010

Q: Our regularly used dining table was refinished in dark brown, high gloss lacquer and shows superficial surface scratches with use. Is this is normal? A: It is for lacquer, which has only moderate scratch resistance. To make things worse, scratches show more readily on gloss surfaces. Lacquer does have good stain resistance, but not [...]

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Poly who?

Friday, April 9th, 2010

Q: I just had an oak dining table refinished in a dark brown, shiny poly finish. It looks great, but only after two weeks I am seeing dozens of little superficial surface scratches everywhere. Do you think this is normal? A: Fine scratches on the surface of a gloss finish are certainly common. Of course, [...]

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Durable gold

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Q: If I don’t coat gold leaf, it will wear after a while, but when I coat the leaf I lose that brilliance. What should I do? A: It is true that coated leaf is not as brilliant as genuine burnished metal leaf. That’s why real gold leaf is left unsealed. As for wear, that’s [...]

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Beer proof finish

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Q: I’m making 4 fiddle back maple tabletops for a local restaurant, and I’m hunting for a good durable finish. I’ll be putting Watco natural on for color, then I need something to protect the surface from food, beer, etc. A: You have two good choices for that level of durability. One is simple oil [...]

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Rabbit reality

Friday, January 1st, 2010

Q: I’m planning on building a rabbit cage to keep outside using 3/4″ particleboard, because of its price. I’ve got some Zinsser SealCoat and was wondering if I could use that as a primer, then use an exterior grade latex or oil based paint on top. A: Yes, you can use Zinsser SealCoat under any [...]

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What’s on top?

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

Q: I am using Plasti-Kote Super, an exterior/interior aerosol spray paint on drums. Is that acceptable without an oil or a varnish? When I put an oil atop matte black painted drums, it changes the sheen. A: Nominally, the answer is yes, that paint is durable enough to stand on its own without any topcoat. [...]

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Simpler than stripping

Monday, September 28th, 2009

Q: My oak wood floor was refinished in the spring of ’06 before moving to this house. Now the surface is gone where we walk and needs to be refinished again. The contractor claimed three coats of oil polyurethane were applied. We have dogs and cats and considering the layout I will need to refinish [...]

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More macho

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

Q: Which is a more durable finish for a dining room table, Varathane or lacquer? A: Varathane is a brand, not a type of finish, but the company is widely known for their polyurethanes, so I will assume that is what you meant to ask. Oil based polyurethane is substantially more durable against the rigors [...]

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