Michael Dresdner

straight talk about wood finishing

Archive for the 'compatibility' Category

Oil based lacquer?

Thursday, August 19th, 2010

Q: Can I put oil based wiping polyurethane over oil based spray lacquer?
A: The simple answer to your question is yes, you can put oil based polyurethane, whether wiped, brushed or sprayed, over almost anything, including lacquer. For the record, though, lacquer is, by definition, an evaporative finish, while oil based finishes are, by definition, [...]

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A shade more glycerin

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Q: I just obtained two small table lamps made of burl and the lampshades are of what appears to be birdseye maple veneer. The veneer is fabric backed and very brittle. As a result there are some small voids and cracks in each shade. I plan to back the voids with wood putty and then [...]

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Just a shmear

Friday, August 6th, 2010

Q: If I brush on a final finish, will it cause water based dye stain to bleed into the finish on the brush and smear?
A: Water soluble dye can bleed onto a brush loaded with waterbased finish. Whether that will be enough to smear the stain also depends on your brushing technique and how aggressively [...]

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To seal or not to seal

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

Q: Should I apply a sanding sealer after staining maple? I read that you cannot use sanding sealer under a sprayed precatalyzed spray lacquer which is what I was thinking of finishing with.
A: That’s half true; stearated sealers, which are one type of sealer, are not compatible under most catalyzed finishes. You must have a [...]

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Dye another day

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

Q: I am about to start staining and finishing my new maple kitchen cabinets. I decided to use a dye stain. On my sample pieces I applied a wood conditioner then lightly sanded, then applied the stain to the color I wanted.
A: Dyes work best on raw wood. Wood conditioners work by inhibiting stain absorption. [...]

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Hungry rocker

Friday, June 18th, 2010

Q: I just finished my fifth Maloof style rocker and have not been happy with finishing results yet. On the latest I just applied my second coat of Danish finish. I followed the instructions and wiped both coats dry. I want more shine; what can I put on top of the oil?
A: You have several [...]

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Apples to apples?

Friday, June 4th, 2010

Q: We want to do a comparison of the performance of a variety of solvents for shellac:Lee Valley’s Shellac/Lacquer Thinner; a lab grade of denatured ethanol and common hardware store methyl hydrate. We plan to prepare samples of blond shellac, mixed in each of the three solvents, apply them to wood samples and test [...]

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Ink or glue, but not the two

Friday, May 21st, 2010

Q: If I use India ink for ebonizing, will that affect the glue up?
A: Yep. Any stain will diminish the bonding ability of glue, though some more than others. Dyes are less obstructive than pigments (India ink is a pigment) but the rule is that if you stain before glue up, mask off the glue [...]

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Piano polyester problems

Friday, May 7th, 2010

Q: I have a piano with what Kawai tells me is a polyurethane finish that was severely gouged. While I am a professional refinisher, I am at a loss as to how to burn-in the gouges and rub them out without having to re-coat. Is there a method to avoid the re-coating?
A: Probably not. I [...]

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Don’t make me sand!

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

Q: My oak moldings and baseboards were varnished in 1988 and have yellowed. We would like to paint over them. What paint can I use without having to sand the vanish on all the trim boards?
A: Clean the baseboards by scrubbing with mineral spirits on gray nylon abrasive pads and wiping with paper shop towels. [...]

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