Archive for the 'clear coat' Category
Q: I’m making 4 fiddle back maple tabletops for a local restaurant, and I’m hunting for a good durable finish. I’ll be putting Watco natural on for color, then I need something to protect the surface from food, beer, etc.
A: You have two good choices for that level of durability. One is simple oil based [...]
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Posted in clear coat, durability, finishing techniques, polyurethane | No Comments »
Q: I usually finish the soundboard of my classical guitars with dewaxed shellac. It has no color at all and therefore the soundboard ends up being very pale. I noticed all classical guitar sound boards are more toward a brown tint. My question is, do you think luthiers stain their soundboards only by using different [...]
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Posted in Coloring options, clear coat, dye, lacquer, shellac, stain | No Comments »
Q: I’m refinishing a mahogany end table. After stripping the old finish, I washed it down with paint thinner then applied a coat of polyurethane. The finish did not take in some areas. I believe it’s called fisheye. I applied a second coat and it seem to fill in some of the spots but enough [...]
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Posted in clear coat, finish repair, finishing techniques, polyurethane, refinishing, seal, waterbased | No Comments »
Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010
Q: How can one apply CA glue as a finish on turning projects like pens, shaving brushes, bottle stoppers, etc.?
A: Good question, but one I have already covered in this blog about this time last year. Go to the page at the link below, and scroll down. The information you want is in the last [...]
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Posted in clear coat, finishing techniques, lathe, woodturning | No Comments »
Q: I have been using Minwax Satin Oil Based Wipe-On polyurethane for finishing my kitchen cabinets. I can’t buy it anymore in California due to VOC laws. Is the water based product going to give me the same results?
A: Depending on your criteria, you may or may not find it acceptable. It is developing a [...]
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Friday, February 26th, 2010
Q: I recently attempted to hand rub the polyurethane finish on a mahogany tabletop that I refinished and was disappointed with the result. The top has three coats of oil based satin polyurethane. The finish had a nice even satin sheen but felt like 220 grit paper. I then wet sanded with 600, 1000 and [...]
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Posted in clear coat, rubbing out | No Comments »
Wednesday, February 24th, 2010
Q: I find conflicting information as to whether polyurethane can be rubbed.
A: Any finish, including polyurethane, can be rubbed provided it is sufficiently cured. As a rule, the longer the finish cures, the harder it gets and the easier it is to rub. Attempting to rub out a finish that is still rubbery is an [...]
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Friday, February 19th, 2010
Q: I need to put a brand name on my guitars. I’d like to use a stencil or ink stamp under the clear coat. What do you think?
A: Either will work, provided you choose the right medium for your stencil or ink stamp. What’s important is to use a paint or ink that is compatible [...]
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Posted in Coloring options, clear coat, compatibility, lacquer | No Comments »
Wednesday, February 17th, 2010
Q: I’m finishing a guitar in Krylon Special Purpose clear Lacquer over Satin Nickel Metallic over gray primer. The clear coat has some orange peel. I’m afraid to wet sand and buff it because I previously sanded through the finish at the edges and had to start over with bare wood. Since the finish looks [...]
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Posted in clear coat, compatibility, finishing techniques, lacquer, rubbing out, spray | No Comments »
Monday, February 15th, 2010
Q: I’m trying to finish a secretary project. I’ve done part of it with General Finishing wipe on semi-gloss urethane and I guess I got lucky, because now I can’t get the same results without dust and debris setting in. If you do a semi gloss finish is there a way to erase the nibs [...]
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Posted in clear coat, finishing techniques, polyurethane, rubbing out | No Comments »