Michael Dresdner

straight talk about wood finishing

Archive for June, 2010

Open face, closed room

Wednesday, June 30th, 2010

Q: The only information I found on spray booths were for totally enclosed rooms, and indicated you had to use non-explosive fans and light fixtures if you are spraying solvent based finishes. A: Actually, that has nothing to do with them being totally enclosed rooms. Open face booths share the same regulations. It has to [...]

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A big fan

Tuesday, June 29th, 2010

Q: How big a fan will I need for a garage shop spray booth. A: Though they have no legal sway in a garage shop, OSHA mandates 100 cfm (cubic feet per minute) per square foot of filtered booth wall, and in my opinion, those are good guidelines to follow. In other words, if you [...]

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Spray week begins

Monday, June 28th, 2010

Q: I want to put a spray booth in my garage shop to spray oil based paint. Is it necessary to use an explosion-proof motor for the fan? A: You are asking a legal question, not a finishing question, and I am not a lawyer. My guess is that you want to know if you [...]

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Hungry rocker

Friday, June 18th, 2010

Q: I just finished my fifth Maloof style rocker and have not been happy with finishing results yet. On the latest I just applied my second coat of Danish finish. I followed the instructions and wiped both coats dry. I want more shine; what can I put on top of the oil? A: You have [...]

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Dust devil

Thursday, June 17th, 2010

Q: I recently watched your excellent video at finewoodworking.com about HVLP sprayers and how to make a paint booth in the shop with cardboard panels. I have one question though. With the fan sucking all the air out the garage door or window, do you find that it is also sucking a certain amount of [...]

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Pumice problems

Wednesday, June 16th, 2010

Q: When using pumice stone and linseed oil to rub out slight discoloration in an inlaid dining table I encounter little spots forming. The discolorations do disappear. A: First, if you must use pumice (and there are far better alternatives), pair it with a non-drying oil such as mineral oil, not linseed oil. As for [...]

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No fade, no shade

Tuesday, June 15th, 2010

Q: We are in the process of making a dining room table out of solid padauk and purpleheart, and wanted to know the best way to finish it. We would love to be able to keep the colors of the natural wood, without ambering over time. A clear, durable finish would be great as well. [...]

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Gel dye

Monday, June 14th, 2010

Q: I am trying to find the gel base for water based dyes. Do you have formula or resource to this gel base, and does anyone make water base dye gels? A: I used to. Back in the late 80’s to 1995, my wife ran a company called Clearwater Color Company, making waterbased gel dye [...]

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The evils of over sanding

Friday, June 11th, 2010

Q: I’m getting some shiny areas in the finish after four coats of satin lacquer, scuffing with 180 in between. The sealer over the pore filler is two coats of tinted garnet shellac. Over that is one coat of sanding sealer. I fear I’ve sanded through the lacquer and gotten down to either the tinted [...]

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Silver fox

Thursday, June 10th, 2010

Q: I am using India ink under urethane to ebonize an oak table. I want a bit of a limed effect with some gray color in the pores, but still want to keep an open grain appearance. A: That’s what glaze does; it is a specialized wiping stain with strong pigmentation meant to impart color [...]

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