Did you know that most any oil based varnish or polyurethane can also be used as a wipe on finish? It’s true!
Wipe on finishes are much easier to use than those that require us to learn how to manipulate a brush or spray gun. But many wipe on finishes are simply ultra thin versions of varnish loaded with lots of mineral spirits.
That means they offer very little protection per coat, and may take many coats to get any substantial coverage. To make matters worse, some will “bleed” out of the grain of large pore woods, like oak and ash, leaving small, hard beads of finish that create a decidedly rough surface.
Now, don’t get me wrong – there are also some very good polyurethanes that are sold specifically as wipe ons, some of which are in a thick, easy-to-use gel form. My favorite of these is Polyurethane Gel, available from Rockler. However, these are often not well distributed, and may be hard to find in the local home store.
Instead, buy a can of your favorite oil based polyurethane varnish and simply flood it on and wipe it off. I like to use Scotch-brite T to apply it and a shop towel to wipe off. On flat surfaces, you can simply wipe it on carfully and evenly with a rag. If the one you have chosen dries too fast, add a bit of boiled linseed oil to slow it down and make it easier to manipulate. It will look as good and be just as easy to use as “Danish oil,” but will give you more build per coat and more protection.
Michael, I have stripped & sanded a 100 yr young oak plant stand that is an heirloom from my wife’s grandma. It has usual black h2o rings, 1 on top shelf & yep 1 on bottom too. Wood bleach I tried on bottom side out of sight REALLY lightened-up the grain. Would you try to feather on topside,maybe tape it off & do a dark stain to try & disguise,or let it ride? What is best to finish this old piece that may or not ever be used again as a plant stand? I’m gonna “owe ya” bro as I really wanna do it rite & I trust you! Thanks again!!
Kirk Dustin
July 8th, 2009